By Michelle Williams
It seems that whenever the question of how surfing started is brought up, people don’t really know a clear answer but there are many stories. For many people, the first thing to come to mind when thinking at the beginnings of surfing, is probably a surfer somewhere in Australia. There has been some debate about surfing, both for and against, in Australia, so it is understandable that many surfers feel they know what actually happened when surfing started. But what exactly did happen?
In many parts of Australia, including in New South Wales and Queensland, people would gather together on the beach for a long day of sand-bagging. In Perth, they would gather in the harbor on the weekend for a similar type of gathering as well, before grabbing their surf gear and heading back out into the ocean.
Where Did Surfing Actually Originate?
So where did this strange sport come from? One of the most popular theories is that it was all started somewhere in the Pacific Ocean. A group of sailors on a fishing trip near Japan heard a strange sound coming from the ocean and decided it was a good idea to listen for it. They soon discovered that it was a great deal of noise coming from the ocean that was difficult to hear from land.
After this discovery, they decided it would be fun to see if they could catch on to the ocean’s water noise. They eventually made their way to Tahiti, where they made their first landing in June of 1963. The island was small enough that it was easy to land on, so they quickly began to learn more about the ocean.
Surfers soon became interested in learning more about the ocean, so they made it their own. By the time surfing had caught on in Australia, most people had already come to know about it. Some of these early surfers had even traveled to the island and made their way to Australia to try surfing.
A really great story of how surfing started comes from an article that was written about an early surfboard. There was a tale about how when there was first the first big wave, it actually went just like that. “So as soon as the first big wave hits the beach, there are a surfer called Jack Loney and he immediately paddles out in a white water raft and then he starts paddling as hard as he can to get out of it. When he paddles, he hits the reef and there are two or three white foam balls floating around and they just start hitting his face. All he had was some kind of driftwood or a block of ice and he was able to catch these guys!”
There was another story about a bunch of kids who were riding their board in the ocean and they decided to do what is called a ‘whole raft system’ in which they put all their stuff on their board and they would just ride their board to wherever the big waves were. Because there was not too much surf to go around, there were always big waves for them to ride and the big waves became their playground.
Surfing Is Here To Stay
The main reason that surfing has a resurgence is that surfing used to be something that everyone wanted to know how surfing started, but now it is something that is just part of life. People are just starting to realize that surfing was once a sport that was popular but it is not just about that anymore. It’s just about the passion, adventure, and the thrill of it, but it used to be something that made people travel.
Surfers were able to travel to other countries and learn about the sport from those who surf regularly surf. The sport spread all over the world, and soon surfers began to travel all around the world. Today, people from every walk of life can learn the art of surfing. There are now surf schools all over the world and surfing is here to stay!
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The Future of Surfing
If you are a long-time surfer, you have likely heard the future of surfing predicted by some of the surfers that you have read about in magazines and books over the years. In this article, we take a closer look at what surfing has in store for us, and what the future holds.
First, let’s consider the past. The past holds some very interesting statistics and information. A very interesting statistic that has been discussed in many surfing articles is the amount of people who have died while surfing. This isn’t the most adventurous hill to die on by any stretch, but it’s certainly not the safest hill to surf either.
The past shows us that there are far more deaths caused by car accidents than the ones caused by surfing. As with anything, the more dangerous it becomes, the more it will be illegal. In other words, the more dangerous surfing becomes, the less it is going to be legal.
In recent time, surfers have begun to turn to the high seas in order to get some of the best surfing opportunities. Surfers that have gone into this extreme sport are well aware of the dangers of surfing in the sea, and they also know that the risk to their health and possibly even their lives are too great to ignore.
The ocean is not a very friendly place for surfers to be. The conditions on the ocean are very rough, and the water temperature can change quickly. It’s impossible to predict the exact weather in the ocean. Many surfers find their board is just too cold or too hot on the ocean, and they can’t control the speed that they are riding at.
In conclusion, the future of surfing in the ocean looks very bright indeed. We are going to see an explosion in new, safer surfing opportunities that are coming to the ocean and to the beach. If you are a surfer and you want to check out some of these opportunities, then you will want to take a look at our article about what surfing has in store for you.
What are your thoughts on how surfing started?Â
Is this a sport you enjoy while out in the great outdoors? What do you love about it? Do share your views and experiences below.
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Michelle Williams
An avid writer, traveller, surfer (and many other outdoor pursuits). I have visited over 30 countries in the last 15 years, love to get off the beaten track and explore new destinations.
You are equally likely to find me with my laptop on the top of a mountain or a hidden beach.
My writing can be found across various publications online and I am always happy to write for anyone, just drop me a line : michelle@webmailant.com
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